Travelogue from Pakistan

Monday, April 24, A.D. 2006

Week of Compassion Director, Johnny Wray, is traveling in Pakistan to visit Church World Service relief and recovery efforts in response to the October 8, 2005 earthquake. Disciples/WOC have provided nearly $300,000 in support of the initial CWS appeal and will soon be considering a new and major appeal from CWS for long-term recovery and rehabilitation. Below are excerpts from his travel notes.

Thursday, 4/20

First full day in Pakistan. Traveled from the capital of Islamabad to the Kashmir city of Rawalakot.

Rather harrowing drive along high, winding mountain roads that have to be cleared daily of landslides. The scenery was breathtaking - literally! and certainly have a new appreciation for guard rails and road shoulders and especially for CWS staff, who regularly travel to quake-stricken areas to deliver material, assess work and ferry about visitors. The 70 or so mile trip took 5 hours - one way!

The one hospital in Rawalakot was destroyed. Medical care in the town and surrounding mountain communities is a huge need. CWS is one of three organizations providing such assistance and operates a Basic Health Unit (BHU - essentially a clinic) and two mobile health units (traveling teams of a doctor, two nurses and related staff) that visit isolated communities. The two teams and the BHU typically see daily more than 100 patients each - mostly women and children. The staff is incredibly dedicated and working/living under most difficult conditions. The new CWS recovery appeal will allow this much-needed program to continue.

The five-hour drive back to Islamabad was less harrowing at night - what you don't see won't scare you! We were all in agreement that our driver, Frank, was due a raise.

Friday, 4/21

Travel today was easier - not as long, better roads. Traveled to Balakot City in the North West Frontier Province - epicenter of the quake was here. Most of the city was destroyed and about half the population killed. Government intends to relocate the city, but the residents are already opening markets, attempting to rebuild their homes amid the ruins.

Visited a CWS trade training center - a centerpiece of CWS' long-term recovery plans. CWS is working with DOSTI, a local Pakistani humanitarian organization, to develop these centers in 4 hard hit districts. Objectives of the program are to train nearly 2500 men in sustainable livelihood trades - carpentry, masonry, welding, electrical and plumbing. Some 80 men were energetically and eagerly engaged here. All had lost their homes, many had lost family, and some even their very land from the slides. Most are very poor and worked previously as day or agricultural laborers, if they could find employment at all. Now they will have the skills to build their own homes, be employed on CWS work teams that will construct more than 4000 quake resistant homes for the most vulnerable surviving families and have a very valuable and needed skill.

Also visited the construction of a model straw house. A simple technology that uses pressed straw and plaster as the basic building material. Apparently such homes are quake resistant, environmentally friendly, and well insulated. The difficulty may be in finding the straw.

I believe St. Andrew CC in Olathe, KS, used a similar technology in building their quite beautiful facilities.

Saturday, 4/22

Another long day on the road - this time to the Maira camp, located on the Indus River at the foot of the Himalayas. At one time this was the largest camp in the country for displaced quake families - more than 21,000 people. Now fewer than 100 families remain - unable to return as their homes and lands were lost in slides and are awaiting word from the government on where to relocate. The camp was featured in a CNN report and a number of U.S. senators and other dignitaries had visited here.

CWS provided the first 1000 tents, courtesy of Finn Church Aid - highly prized because of their size, shape, and insulation, and they came equipped with kerosene heaters. CWS also provided water/sanitation, food, clothing and other basic items. Also had an opportunity to visit with a few of the families and hear their stories.

Sunday, 4/23

Worshipped at St. Thomas church, a congregation of the United Church of Pakistan - somewhat Anglican but with an informal and evangelical flavor. Today is "low" Sunday on the Christian calendar but the sanctuary was full and the spirit of the congregation was good. A little unsettling that we had to go through a security check to enter the church grounds but a reminder of the tensions in the country. Interestingly, the sermon was based on the epistle lesson from 1st John - love one another. Being in the part of the world that is ground zero for the so-called war on terror, it was a poignant reminder of what the world so desperately needs and what all our leaders seem so woefully unable to articulate.

A few observations:

- most impressive to see the partnerships CWS has forged with local partners like DOSTI but also international partners like Norwegian Church Aid (with whom CWS is carrying out major water/sanitation projects). The CWS/NCA partnership is a strong example of how the Action by Churches Together network can work.

- good to hear from local people, other partners and even a government official that CWS has been one of the leaders here in relief and recovery efforts.

- the CWS team here. Marvin Pervez, the country director, is a courageous and dedicated leader who has assembled a young, energetic, hard-working and dedicated team that cuts across gender and religious lines - a much needed witness in a country like Pakistan. They deserve our frequent prayers and our support.

More later. Blessings, Johnny Wray